Edgewise posted a picture of his hatchets so naturally I wanted to know about them and get some individual pictures. He emailed me all this good stuff today, so here it is with his descriptions..
A few of my favorites:
The double-bit pocket axe, oal 10 3/4", 3 3/4"W, 1 3/4" Faces, 1/2" thick @ eye, wt. 7-8 oz. Sheath by Edgewise.
The single-bit pocket axe, oal 10 1/2", 3 3/4"W, 2 3/16" Face, 9/16" thick @ poll, wt. 9-10 oz. Weighed with a digital fish scale that measures to 1/10 of a pound. I converted to oz.
Scagel-type knife by Dr Jim Lucie (Fruitport, Michigan). Chestnut sheath by Edgewise. A short-bladed Scagel like this is a bit handle-heavy, so I wanted a sheath that would lower the center-of-gravity in the carry position.
Premium Scout made for A.G. Russell. Steel is 154CM, one of my favorites.
DPPH (Drop Point Pocket Horn) by Jess Horn. Steel is 154CM. This model was introduced at the Kansas City knife show in 1979. I was lucky enough to be picked in a lottery for the chance to buy one of these. As I recall, there were 100 of this jigged-bone model and 5 in mother-of-pearl. This has been my EDC as a "Gentleman's pocket knife" ever since.
My Trout/Bear knife. O-1 tool steel and Ivory Micarta (with internal pins that don't go through the scales). I made this about 25 years ago after returning from a fishing trip near Thessalon Ontario, where my dad and I were nearly stranded in "Bear Country" without a decent blade between us. I wear this suspended from a (shanked) button sewn onto my fishing vest (above the wool fly-patch). There is an upsidedown T cut into the back of the "belt loop" to make it easier to fit over the button. I slide the sheath behind the fly-patch and "button" it on. Does a great job of "unzipping" trout, but also provides a very readily accessable fixed blade to put a little "bite" into any bear that gets too close.
Here's the Nessmuk-type canoe axe alongside the Marbles 10" Trailmaker and a Wyoming saw. "Nessmuk-type" canoe axe, oal 18 1/2", 6 3/8"W, 2 13/16"faces, 3/4" thick @ eye, 1# 12-13oz.
I added a finger loop to the Trailmaker because I thought it would keep me from letting the knife slip out of my hands, but I find that if I let the weight of the knife do the work instead of "helping it", it stays put quite nicely. I soaked the leather handle in Neatsfoot oil and poured some inside the handle when I had the butt cap off to add the loop.
Mora hatchet, Hackman, Jarvenpaa, and Brusletto. Mora, oal 12 1/2", 4 1/2"W, 3 9/16" Face, 1/4" thick, 16 oz..
Both of these have an Indianhead emblem imbedded in the handle. The knife is made from a file. Don't know if they are related in some way or not, but when I saw the hatchet at a knife show last weekend, I thought it belonged with the knife. I don't know if I'd trust the knife to not be brittle, but the hatchet looks like it could become a treasured companion. OAL 11 1/2", 4"W, 2 5/8"Face, 11/16" thick @ poll, 14oz..
Hawk made from a file. Suposed to be from the 1800's. I put the handle on it, but don't like it (too brittle) so I bought what looks like an old hand made axe handle blank (from an antique shop) that appears to have been used for some kind of stir stick. I'm going to rehaft the hawk with that and some rawhide. Hawk, oal 17 1/2", 5 3/4"W, 3 1/4" Face, 5/16" thick @ 2", 22 oz. .
The "regular" sized hawk is my favorite hand axe to carry in the woods. OAL 17 1/2", 5 3/4"W, 3 1/4"Face, 5/16" thick, wt.=22oz.
The "little hawk" is another blade that was supposedly from the 1800's and the blade appears to be "sandwiched" over an inserted core, while the bigger hawk just seems to be a "combover". :-). Little hawk: oal 12 1/8", 5"W, 2 1/2" Face, 5/16" thick @ 2", 11oz.
Below the SAK Hunter is a knife (made from a file) with the maker's mark "Griz". This blade looks like a really good piece of work, fully convexed. The Ulu is another piece that I acquired from an antique shop for a few bucks. Hand forged, fully convexed. Looks like a real workhorse.
Then there's the Marbles Special Hunter with Impala-jigged buffalo horn, and the Marbles Trailcraft. I like a short blade like that for cleaning game and the Cocobolo gamegetter handles are real comfortable.
The hand axe, the saw, the Yari (154CM...one of my favorite blade steels), the Covert Folder, the Paul knife (from the 1st batch made) and a Gerber steel. Not a bad assortment to be "stuck with" in the bush.
Gerber/Fiskars, oal 14 3/16", 4 5/16"W, 2 3/4" Face, 1/2" thick @ 2", 11/16" @ eye, 9/16" @ poll, 16-17 oz..
2 #6 Marble's Safety Axes - 1 near-mint and 1 excellent "user", Old and New "Expert" models. Muskrat and Teardrop folders, and one of my favorites, the drop point.
Marbles safety-axes, oal 11 1/2", 4 1/2 - 4 5/8"W, 2 1/2 - 2 5/8" Face, 11/16" thick @ poll, wt: 18-19 oz.
Cattaraugus hunting knife. Good, thin, sharp, hard edge, great slicer.
Case Combo. Case 2-blade Trapper (I think that's what it's called) and Sodbuster. Case combo, oal 11", 4 1/4"W, 2 1/2" Face, 5/32" thick, 12-13 oz..
My Dad cleaned about 30-35 deer over the years with that big folder. Then he lost it. Found it the next year after it had been run over by snow mobiles. I sent it in to Case and they replaced the broken scales and bent liners, and cleaned it up real nice for a grand total of $25. I was extremely grateful.
The little Remington hand axe hasn't been used yet, but looks like it could be a handy tool to throw in a backpack. Remington, oal 10 3/4", 4 1/4"W, 2 13/16" Face, 3/16" thick, 12-13 oz..
I thought the Fallknivens (an A-1 and an F-1) made good companions for the Wetterling. I thought the set needed a folder and the Spiderco LUM (made in Seki Japan) is VG-10, like the Fallknivens. It'll do until I get a Fallkniven folder. Wetterling, oal 12 3/4", 5 3/16"W, 2 3/4" Face, 3/8" thick @ 2", 7/8" @ eye, 11/16" @ poll, 20-21 oz..
If you have questions, criticisms, or things to add - email me please.