Mora and Other Scandinavian Knives:

I'd been reading a lot of posts on Bladeforums about how great Scandinavian knives are, and I like Mors Kochanski's book, "Bushcraft" in which he promotes them. Trouble is - I've owned some over the years and I mostly gave them away because I really didn't like them. We're talking about the cheap and ugly stuff here, not the beautiful puukos. I remembered that I still had a Martini filetting knife with a cut down blade so I decided to clean it up and see why I didn't like it, and what it would really do when properly sharpened...

It didn't take me long to find out that I still hated it! The problem was that front tapering slippery handle. That varnished handle is really slippery when wet - an accident waiting to happen! I decided to remove the varnish and fire harden the birch handle all at once with a propane torch. I just heated and brushed the carbon off with my brass brush. I even modified the shape slightly by burning. I scrubbed the handle off leaving some black, dried the wood with the torch, and soaked in some thinned linseed oil (1part linseed, 2 parts gum turpentine). A few days later I came back to try the knife again and found that I liked it! I like it more than a little - it's now my #1 kitchen knife. I use the sucker for peeling in water all the time with never a thought of slipping or the lack of a guard.

After the handle fixing being a success, it was time to sharpen. I guess everyone has heard of legendary Swedish steel like Sandvik - well you aren't going to find any of that in a cheap knife. Nope - Euro mystery steel is what you get (This means whatever they could get a good price on at the time, not some highly secret new formula.). The stainless steel sure took a lot of honing even with my rig - stainless is tough, it just may not be hard. Eventually I had an edge that would slice paper, and I was really curious as to how long the edge would last. It did very well compared to cheap stainless in my Gerber. It didn't hold up as well as carbon steel though.

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"There's been a fair bit of discussion in the past on Mora blades and why they are recommended in the Bushcraft book. I believe that this is the most appropriate forum to discuss them since people here are constantly experimenting with jobs that such knives are appropriate for. The knives and blades are cheap and easily found so even people who have never used one can pick one up to try if they want.

I guess that the reason I would like discussion is that with these knives we can have a benchmark to discuss what they can do, and realistically what other knives can do better (and why). They come in many blade lengths and widths - all with the same steels and general construction, so people with different preferences in blade length can still discuss them, and why they prefer their model.

I was at the store and picked up a Mora knife for $8.95 CAN. It's the red handled plastic sheathed ugly one - this one with a 6" non laminated carbon blade. I'll be getting a full set to try out different blade steels (laminated and non laminated, stainless..) and blade lengths. I've owned some before - but always gave them away. I always considered them toolbox knives.

So in the store I picked one up at random out of 50. When I have time I can pick over the rest more critically! The first strange point is that now I've obviously become more interested in knife function - the looks don't offend me so much!

It was quite true that one of these selected at random will slice paper. It looked as if the blade had been polished to an edge with some rounded grind marks still apparent. When I examined the blade with a 16X magnifier, I saw that I was wrong. There is a minute secondary bevel, quite steep too. The saber grind is also slightly hollow ground.

It's quite a bit of work with a glass plate and abrasives to get the edge straight, and get past the bits where grinding has altered the temper. If you don't do this you'll end up with a blade that cuts paper very well - but parts of the blade will seem to blunt quickly and tear while others seem to just keep going. I wanted to follow the saber grind taper. I'm prepared to believe that this blade is somewhere around R60+ as the ads say. Subjectively it is harder to sharpen than a Scrade carbon blade, and