Tinders For Sparking Rods




A Few Words First, if I May...:

The main reason that I am active on and in promoting forums is that I've learned so many things. Every day I learn some new twist or way of thinking about the outdoors. In the last few days I came across one that really impressed me. It's quite simple, doesn't require new and expensive gear - and yet it solves something that has eluded more than a few of us. Simply - it's how to use a ferrocerium (sparking) rod more effectively.

It's one thing to ramble on about tinders, but it does unfortunately lead readers to think that maybe I have it all down and that fire building is really simple. In dry conditions, of course, fire building really is simple - but conditions aren't always like that! I'd sort of guess that I have quite a few hours in total of frustration over trying to start damp tinder. I'd also guess that there are many like me if only they'd 'fess up! So lately I'd always taken care to make sure that I had large ferro sparking rods, and usually some well prepared tinder along (just in case...). That's all well and good, since those sparking rods are a steal of a deal!

Then of course - Bear posted this on the Bushcraft UK forum:

Have you ever showered your dry tinder with sparks over and over but for some reason it won't catch?

Okay,

1. Hold the firestick in your fingers in such a way that you can place your thumb on the striking surface.

2. Place some tinder between your thumb and the firestick.

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4. With a little more pressure than usual, strike, taking the tinder with the knife - it's so much more efficient.

This also works with thicker heavier tinder than usual. For example; dry leaves. Simply put a small dry leaf under the knife and it will catch.

How do we know if the leaf is dry enough?

1. If you can crumple the leaf in your hand it is wet.

2. If the leaf breaks up in your hand it is dry.


When I first saw this, my inclination was to think - well "Yeah Right!.... I must have tried this before and not had it work." To be fair, though, I took some fireweed fluff that I'd been meaning to toast for tinder and gave the method a try. Fresh stuff - or stuff that's been sitting in a plastic bag, just doesn't catch too well because it's too waxy, and the wax keeps in dampness. It's hard to keep compressed enough too - quite unlike the weathered stuff which is just like cotton baton. The bottom line is that I got a flame every time. I was able to keep the fluff compressed, and since it was right in front of the striker, the spark didn't have anywhere else to go. Best of all, if a person had a tinder bundle, ready and held down by the rod, the small piece of held tinder would drop right into it, and set it off.

Right now, things are cold and dry - so I figured that I'd give this method a try outside. We've had a spell of -20C weather with high winds -so figure a windchill in the -30C range or more. Butane lighters stop working in those temps, unless they're kept in an inside pocket, and getting one or a match to stay lit is pretty desperate or just impossible. This sparking rod method worked well though - better than inside because of the wind. Tinder with a spark in the middle goes like smoking a cigarette while riding a motorcycle!

Once a person has a little practise in holding the tinder (especially with gloves) between the striker and the rod, the method is super. At this point it's easy to look back and reflect that people who use natural flint have been practising almost the same method for years. I'll be honest, though, and say that it's new to me with a ferro rod, and should save me a lot of strife and upset in the future! For use with a smaller ferro rod that won't throw a huge shower of sparks and bits of burning ferro - this could well be a lifesaving skill!

Way to go, Bear!



General Properties:

A tinder should be fine and hair-like in consistency, dry, and have lots of edges. There's lots of stuff both around the house and out in the bush which can be made so. How fine the stuff has to be , how dry and how critical edges are depends on the size of the rod